I'd like to say ccongratulations to Wally, Clark, John, Rick for the effort they put forth before and during the climb on Denali's impressive West Rib. Climbing the south face of Denali was was an adventure the whole way, and with the route to ourselves, we enjoyed an real Alaskan experience.
The Alaskan Grade 4 route was not easily accessed through the active "Valley of death". Proper route finding gave way to excellent climbing conditions up the 1,200 ft access coulior to mark the beginning of the real climbing. Establishing camps at 11,000, 12,800,14,700, and 16,300 we made our way up the rib while ferrying loads and fixing lines. We endured our fair share of weather days(8) while on route which tried everyones patience. The team encountered 45-55 degree ice and snice climbing while ferrying loads up the couloir and while single carrying the day between 14,700 and 16,300. Our campsites while providing the most scenic view, were consistently hand crafted from the not so flat slopes of Denali's south face.The route took its toll on the equipment we brought, wearing through ropes, shovels, tents.
After all that, we just needed a couple more days at high camp (16,300) with food to make a summit bid. I know the team had it in them to stick it out and see it through. After running low on food, we painfully descended the popular West Buttress Route in about 13 hrs. Amazing, after climbing for three weeks to arrive back at the start(B.C.).
I'd like to congratulate the team once more for their effort on a safe Alaskan alpine experience.
"CLIMB ON"
Zach Shlosar
Friday, June 12, 2009
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