Sunday, May 31, 2009

Still at 12,800 ft

They're feeling a bit stuck right now at the "Apex Camp" at 12,800 on the W. Rib. Climbers thruout the Alaska Range are waiting out the weather right now, and everyone is hoping for a change soon. You can check out the forecast on the link to the right, but remember it's just their weather guess.

Zach and Mike went for some extra food and fuel from the cache at 14k the other day, so nobody is suffering for food. They are probably dreaming of cheesburgers however.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Still at 12,800 ft

Zach called this afternoon and the team is still tucked in at 12,800 ft. They're getting a bit bored right now, on a ridge all by themselves just waiting for the weather to change.
They've been watching the snow and wind for the last several days, and are hoping to see something change soon. Zach and Mike are probably going to head up to their cache to pick up a bit more food and fuel this afternoon.

You can't wish away the weather, we've tried for years, but it will change one day.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Camped at 12,800 ft

Zach just called from their first camp up on the W. Rib at 12,800 ft. They moved up yesterday, and today they went back down the ridge for the food and fuel they cached a couple of days ago. They carried that food and fuel up, past camp, and cached it at around 14,000 ft on the Rib. They are doing great, and have had a couple of big days in a row. Tomorrow they are hoping to move camp up to the 14,000 ft zone where they left the gear today. It was just starting to snow this evening, but they'll just see what tomorrow brings.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Moving up to the West Rib

Zach called after breakfast this morning as they were packing up to move camp up onto the West Rib. They carried loads up yesterday, and have had great conditions. Zach called the trip so far "Awesome" and everyone is having a good time and climbing strong. They had a long day yesterday, but the team is feeling strong this morning, and is taking advantage of another nice day to move up to the first camp on the Rib.
Climber ascending the Chicken Couloir. Photo from previous expeditions.

Friday, May 22, 2009

At the base of the Chicken Couloir

Zach called from Camp 2 up the NE Fork right at the base of the Couloir where the steep climbing will start. They are at just over 11,000 feet now and doing great. Tomorrow they'll go back down to their last camp at 9,800 ft and pick up the rest of their food, fuel, etc. The weather has been pretty nice, with a bit of clouds, and some pretty light snowfall. Sounds like they are having a great time.

Doing Great at 9,800ft

Zach called last night, and they are all doing great up at Camp 1 at 9,800 ft on the NE fork. They made a cache at 11,000 ft at the base of the route yesterday (Thursday) and will be moving on up today. Everyone is doing great, and it sound like they are having a good old time up there. They are getting anxious to get on the route, and start up the steep stuff soon.

Looking up to the upper ice fall from 9,800 ft camp. Photos from previous expedition.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Up the NE Fork

The team was scheduled to move up the NE fork yesterday, and will be making a carry up to the base of the "Chicken Coulior" today. Zach is planning to call every other night while on route so we hope to get a call tonight.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Small hitch from the start..

Zach had a minor boot disaster as he was getting on the plane in Talkeetna on Sunday to fly into base camp. He had a zipper blow out on his fancy new La Sportiva Oly Mons boots, which makes them unusable. He was a bit stressed, but we were able to pick up a new pair of boots in Anchorage, and get them flown in to meet them the following day. Hopefully they've got their gear disaster behind them now.

Last night (monday) they called from 7,800ft on the Kahiltna and were hoping to carry their first loads of gear up the NE fork of the Kahiltna heading up to the base of the W. Rib today.

Starting up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna. Photos from previous expeditions.